Taking a dip in Italy

We were aware of the forecasted temperatures prior to our recent trip to Italy, but I have to confess, we were a piccolo bit dismissive about how 95°+ was going to impact our vacation. Once we were there experiencing the heat, our primary impulse was to find some water and get into it – pronto.

In Polignano we went to two different beaches, both of which we were able to reach on foot. The first was that iconic beach which you’ve probably seen pictures of, Cala Monachile. Visually, it is remarkable with gorgeous water protected on two sides by rocky cliffs, but the beach itself left something to be desired. Aside from being pebbles rather than sand, there was a fair amount of trash on the parts of the beach which weren’t covered by towels, blankets and bodies. The water was lovely, but hanging out there wasn’t very appealing.

Our next two days, we walked a little beyond the first cove and arrived at Lido Cala Paura where we were able to rent lounge chairs and an umbrella for the day at a very reasonable price. Also available were cheap and cold beers and food from a nearby restaurant. The water was the ideal temperature for me (72°) and the beach felt safe in terms of leaving our stuff unattended while we swam. I’d happily return anytime.

While we were in Santa Maria di Leuca I got a real sense of how complacent we truly are when we travel. Upon our arrival, our host recommended a nearby place, Lido Giulia, where we could access the water as well as beverages and food. After a little unpacking, we drove to this well established, but small venue, where we grabbed a couple of sunbeds and an umbrella and settled in for the duration of the day. The lido extends onto multiple decks, each facing the Adriatic, with a railed ramp for accessing the water. We were so comfortable and happy, that this was where we returned for the next two days.

Our next location, Matera, didn’t come with any opportunities for swimming or waterside lazing, but the beautiful Baroque city, Lecce, provided us with a spot that we, once again, returned to for multiple days. Just a short cab ride away from our accommodations, Masseria Luciagiovanni, with its large, but shallow pool and more than passable restaurant, became our oasis for whiling away the ever so hot days. It had a Moroccan vibe which was super cool and we thoroughly enjoyed our time spent reading, napping and swimming poolside. Lunch, with a bottle of local wine, was totally reasonably priced and unlike places in the States, we never felt gouged.

Our final destination together was Naples and getting into the water here was a challenge. While there are large rocks suitable for sunbathing and many locals who seemed to enjoy the water of Naples Bay, we were spoiled by this point and wanted something a little more, most especially some protection from the sun, like an umbrella. I sent out a number of emails trying to find a beach club for us and, unfortunately, turned up no availability for what we were seeking. We had almost resigned ourselves to going to a public beach which came with online warnings about theft and glass when an email came through offering us spots at a private club which doesn’t typically allow nonmembers to frequent.

My only explanation as to how we got lucky is this: it never hurts to ask.

With access to both the bay and a pristine pool, we were incredibly happy spending our last day together at Circolo Relax. While it was the priciest place (€40 per person) we lazed, we had no regrets. The facilities were well maintained, the view entrancing and the clientele family oriented and pleasant. Being able to relax amidst the chaos that is Naples was a genuine treat.

Southern Italy is the summer is hot, but finding a place to get in the water can make all the difference. A day at the beach or pool is the perfect way to cope.