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I want to get away – Part I
…and Part II
It’s that time of the evening again. The sun has set, with me as its sole witness on our rooftop deck, and I’m alternating between cold white wine and cold water. I don’t really need dinner after another late lunch, but some ice cream might be nice and, since it’s our final night on this island, I probably should indulge myself. F*ck it. I don’t know when I’ll be fortunate enough to return to this, my first Greek island, and I think I want to spend a little more time wandering the maze of streets and, perhaps, say goodbye to the cats and views which have left me utterly charmed.
I miss Naxos already.
And I haven’t even left yet.
We arrived on a day when it seemed the island was trying to keep us offshore, as the wind blew with 50 mph gusts and the ferry workers practically shoved us off the ramp and it’s barely contained bucking. It was intense. Since that day, though, Naxos has softened and accepted our presence with grace. The skies have been blue and the water is warm and the food has been fantastic. We’ve hiked and biked and paddle boarded and swam and the sun has been kind and only slightly burned us. I’m thinking of the redness on my shoulders as a means of taking a little bit of Mediterranean sunshine back home with me. I’m ok with it.
I’ll miss the sounds of sweeping brooms and the water hoses perpetually battling with the sandy soil and the dust it leaves on every single surface. I hope to always remember the noises of the birds and crickets and church bells. I’m certain I’ve never eaten as many tomatoes or capers or olives and I know, that when I eat those things in the future again, they will remind me of my time here. Just like the gelato I’m about to go into town to enjoy.
Thanks, Naxos. It’s been wonderful.
Next stop: Mykonos.
or a bra if I don’t feel like it.
Counting calories
or glasses of wine.
Checking the clock
or my email.
Caring about an extra couple of pounds
or the silver threads in my hair.
Having three meals a day
or even keeping track of how many there have been.
Running
or any exercise beyond walking.
Knowing what day of the week it is
or remembering why that matters other than so I know which island I’m on.
*except for a pop of lipstick
People say all kinds of negative things about Irish food – it’s bland or all fried or what in God’s name is black pudding?, but I’m here to tell you there is some excellent food to be had on the Emerald Isle. While my first day of eating was a disaster with two subpar meals, it’s all been good since then. Here’s a round up of my favorite places to get a good quality meal.
Dublin proper
Vintage Kitchen. Apologies in advance for not having photos of my fantastic dinner, but it’s hard to snap pics when your hands are full of wine glasses! This established and highly regarded spot, near Tara Station, is a tough table to get and had been booked a full 6 months prior to our Saturday night reservation. My lamb shank was divine, but following the starter course of a potato gratin with crab (served in an adorable mini copper skillet), I was hopeless to finish it. This place rocks.
Italian food in Ireland can be dodgy, but Ciao Bella Roma, excruciatingly slow service aside, does a good job with a fairly broad menu. Our table of five enjoyed an array of items including pizza, a calzone, three pasta variations and a couple of salads and everything was surprisingly tasty. Was my cacio e pepe as memorable as what I had in Rome? No, but it was really good and the portion was tremendous. Desserts and a cappuccino rounded out the meal and all were thoroughly enjoyed.
Searsons Pub – This large, popular pub serves a terrific pint as well as a full menu of delights. I had the seafood chowder and found it excellent, chocked with fresh fish and a touch of cream. Very nice and social spot.
Outside of Dublin
Tranquil Tearooms in Deansgrange Cemetery. After a drenching walk trying to locate my father’s resting spot, this cafe was like a welcome mirage promising warmth and coziness. I had no expectation for the high quality of the offerings and I only wish I could have justified ordering a slice of any of the cakes on display, following my sweet potato soup with a slice of brown bread. Wholesome, fresh and precisely what my chilled self needed prior to making my way back outside again on a damp day.
Octopussy’s in Howth. Get on the Dart to Howth and make your way to this small tapas place. If you’re lucky, they’ll find a table to tuck you into, but if you need to wait for availability (reservations not taken), settle in. It’s worth waiting for oysters like the 1/2 dozen I enjoyed. Rounds things out with another plate or two – I went with the scallops and patatas brava. Solid selections. Bonus – great music and very capable service.
Galway
Quay Street Kitchen on the lower part of Quay Street, is a wonderful spot to enjoy a meal while watching the crowds make their way up and down the busy pedestrian street. This was probably my favorite chowder of the trip and it’ll be hard for anyone to exceed the quality and freshness of the ingredients prepared with a respectful and light hand. Absolutely delicious and served with warmth and hospitality.
Oslo Bar in Salthill, luckily for me just a few minutes walk from my Airbnb, is a place that takes it beers quite seriously. Fortunately, their menu rises to the occasion and I thoroughly enjoyed lunch of broccoli salad with a side of the best polenta fries I’ve ever had. The service was a bit distant, but the food hit the mark.
Cava Bodega, a wine bar and tapas spot, made my last evening in Galway a sensory delight. After a bit of negotiating between sitting indoors and out, my server found me a lovely high top table and I settled myself indoors with a view of the street and dining room. My glass of cava came from a fresh bottle and the anchovies with peppers paired beautifully with the dry bubbles. I enjoyed the evening’s special preparation of local mussels in white wine and garlic and despite the loudness of the nearby Americans, I thoroughly enjoyed my time in this well lit and cozy nook slightly off Quay Street. Find it.
Maybe you have some recommendations to add to my certainly incomplete list?
Circa 1988
When I first moved to Albany in 1988, I got a job working split doubles at PD. Ladd’s, currently Dove and Deer. My apartment was just around the corner on Washington Avenue and, since I was carless, I needed to work within walking distance. The Ladopolous brother were very kind to me and, while I really enjoyed working there, I wanted to work someplace that was more renowned for their food than their proximity to the Capitol for the political types who regularly filled the bar.
At my 50th birthday party.
I read a story about Yono Purnomo, and his recognition as Chef of the Year, and set my sights on working at Yono’s in Robinson Square never imagining the impact that decision would have on my life. Thirty years later, my relationship with the Purnomo family continues to affect my life frequently. For instance, yesterday I enjoyed lunch with a friend who I originally met at Yono’s where she was a guest and I a server. Today, I will bring my tax documents to a preparer whose office is next door to the original Yono’s location. Back in the day I would deliver happy hour cocktails to his office, cutting across our rear shared parking lot. My dermatologist, veterinarian practice and optician all were selected upon Donna’s recommendation and I’m still loyal to each of them decades later.
Dinner with the ladies!
Because of this family, on some level, I have a family. My boys’ dad and I met working at Yono’s and we held our pre-wedding fete at the restaurant. When my boys were born, there was bakmi delivered to satisfy the intense hunger caused by birthing babies. Through the Purnomos I’ve met countless hospitality professionals and have enjoyed some terrific industry perks and courtesies. I realized recently that the very first time I ever shared a piece of my writing (some thoughts I had when we lost our resident curmudgeon, John Radley) publicly, was at Yono’s. The response and support I received was encouraging and more than likely influenced me to write and share more.
Is there a word for sister-daughter-niece? Maybe in Italian?
My life has been enriched by this hard-working and gracious family, and the experiences we’ve shared, and I am so glad they allowed me to become part of their extended clan 30 years ago. Happy anniversary, Donna, Yono, Nick & Sis.
Filed under aging, Albany, family, Food, friends, Local, love, moms, Observations, relationships, Uncategorized, upstate New York, Wine
Salzburg made me swoon.
When we last saw our intrepid traveler she was in Salzburg, the little city which stole her big heart. Since then there have been two more cities, including one in yet another new-to-her country. Let’s pick it up with Vienna…
We arrived mid afternoon on Monday, following a scenic and comfortable train ride, and managed to find our flat without difficulty. After traveling with my son almost a week at that point, I knew to stop on the way at a grocery store for a couple of items, namely yogurt and another bottle of grüner veltliner. We quickly settled in and set out on foot to explore without any true destination, other than the ticketing office where we needed to collect out Hop On/Hop Off tickets which I had booked online. We went with the 3 option package which included 24 hours of the bus and two additional attractions of our choosing.
There were so many blooms but these smelled particularly fantastic.
I left Liam in charge of navigation, something he really does quite well, and we meandered our way through the beautiful rose garden to collect our physical tickets near the Opera House. We seriously got on the bus at the exact right time because the skies just opened up and rain poured down. By the time we had done two loops, the rain had stopped and we felt a bit oriented. Time to walk.
While my love for Salzburg is true, Vienna also had some very appealing characteristics. Again, the architecture is phenomenal with elaborate buildings complete with colorful flowers. We stumbled upon St. Stephen’s Cathedral and for the first time of the trip, I wished I hadn’t neglected to bring my Nikon. That roof! The gargoyles! It was just stunning.
We came upon some primo shopping with all of the high-end stores represented, and enjoyed walking on the pedestrian only streets window shopping. In every direction we looked there were beautiful buildings. We finally settled in at the Museums Quartier to watch as the sky put on a post-storm show that my phone couldn’t quite capture. We found our way to our Vienna home and turned in fairly early to ensure a first thing in the morning start for our only complete day in the beautiful city. We would discover that the tram, which ran directly in front of our flat, was quite an effective alarm clock, which was fine because we still had a lot to see. 
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